A Ride to Munnar and Thekkady

Before my memories go dull, better I pen down my journey to what people call God’s own country, Kerala. In my view, Entire India is God’s own country but Nature Gods in specific reside in some states of which Kerala is immensely blessed. For the first time, I had informed in home that I am going for trip in bike. We had skirmishes of course before the reluctant approval. It had relieved me somewhat. Trip was for four days planned to cover Munnar and Thekkady. We would leave on Wednesday 24^th, Dec evening to Mysore and start from Mysore on Thursday Morning to Munnar. I would like to write day wise account of our journey. Hope you guys carry on till the end.

Day – 1

We had to reach Mysore as soon as possible since I had some problems with my bike’s battery wires and Enfield bikes won’t start unless its electric circuit is working fine. So I had been to office very early by my standards so that I can leave office by 4 o’clock. As planned, I left office at same time but was appalled to see that the traffic had already jammed roads. It took 45 mins to reach room for a distance of 13 kms. We got our luggage packed and left room by 5:30 pm. As usual, my roomie Sunil was on work from home. So there was no much delays. I have a strange superstition that once we start a journey, we shouldn’t turn back to home while leaving but my absent minded roomie had kept his specs in his pocket and went back to room to search for it and came back feeling sheepish. This slightly unsettled me.

Anyway, we took outer ring road to reach Hebbal and from there through some route which I didn’t know to Nayandana halli and then to Kengeri and Mysore. Since I didn’t know this route I had to follow him closely but the problem started soon after we entered outer ring road. I had tried to switch on my head light under a bridge and the fuse got burnt and I had only one fuse spare left now. I had to get more spares before I reach Mysore if not plan would go dead of reaching Mysore early. So we stopped at Manyata techpark to search for bullet garage to get fuse spares. Thankfully, there was one nearby. The mechanic did some jugaad to fix problem temporarily and my roomie went searching for spares which he didn’t get. So I took the spares from his bike. By this time, it was 06:30 pm and we were still in outer ring road. We started again and I was closely following by, it had already become dark. After some time, I lost my roomie near a circle where police man stopped exactly at me to allow others. This created a scene later. Now, I had to reach Mysore road alone. I continued on same road for long and stopped in between to download navigation app and navigation voice. I first downloaded English Female India then UK and then US. Nobody was interested to guide me to Mysore road. My Navigation app betrayed me in this most crucial moment. I was completely left on my natural extremely sharp senses to reach Mysore road. I carried on further and somehow came close to Nayandana halli junction. I had to take right here to join Mysore road but I didn’t take a proper right and went on further to join Pesit – Deve gowda petrol bunk road which I realised some time later. So I quickly made a Kejriwal turn and stopped in front of nice road entrance. My brilliant senses told me to enter nice road and escape traffic to reach Mysore road where my roomie was already waiting. By now, Time was 7:30 pm and I have still not reached Mysore road.

                  I carried on after paying toll and went with nice road speed to reach the end where I had to take left but I took right, thankfully, a fellow biker corrected me, I had in between observed police men making rounds and catching people for reasons I was not sure of. So after taking left, I had to join another main road of Nice itself but I thought it is the same road from which I had come so took another left and in a hilarious pathetic way joined back the same road from which I had come. I was afraid to go back in wrong side since police men were nearby. I had no choice but to go back. My insides were burning to ride back. There was no Kejriwal turn in this road. So I had to carry on till the end meaning the start from where I could turn back. So I started the journey again in nice road to escape traffic and reach Mysore road. In between, my roomie had called and I had informed him to carry on to Mysore and I would soon reach him. This time I managed to join proper road with my natural senses and finally came out of nice road travelling 45 kms in a 15 km road.

                I was in Mysore road finally and saw time when I was near RajaRajeshwari hospital, it was 08:10 pm. Now, there was no stopping me. Next target was Mysore. It was drag time. It took me 2 hours 40 min to reach Mysore road and from there 01 hour 40 min to reach Mysore. I reached Ravi’s home by 10 o’clock. We had dinner peacefully (avrekalu sambar) and went on to meet mechanic at 10:45 pm. He did a general check-up, corrected battery wires and other minor things. He is a good person and a trusted mechanic. We came back and slept by 12:00 pm. Tomorrow was a long journey day. From Mysore to Munnar, It is 340 kms and from Munnar to Adimali (Place where we had booked hotel) is 30 kms. So, 370 kms travel ahead. Slightly excited, slightly tired…

Day – 2

                I woke up early again for third day in a row. We had breakfast (avrekalu upma) by 07:30 am and left Ravi’s home by 8 o’clock. We had planned to go by Nanjangudu, Chamrajnagar, Satyamangalam, Palladam, Udumulpet and Munnar. Time to switch on music. Was on a road trip after a long time. Was innocently excited. Road via Nanjangudu and Chamrajnagar was pathetic. It took a lot of time to reach these places. Road after Chamrajnagar to Satyamanagalam road was comparatively good. Now, we had to enter one of the most exhilarating yet terrifying Ghats you could get in Western Ghats. Narrow roads and busy traffic of big Lorries. We couldn’t stop to take pics because of the narrow road and dangerous depths. There were lot of sign boards saying animals crossing but we didn’t get any except for monkeys. We were travelling in this road at around 10 o’clock so might be, we would have observed animals if we had come early morning. It is also well known that these forests were inhabited by Smuggler and poacher Veerapan. It is difficult to believe that he could live and move in those mountains. It is very steep and looks very inhospitable. Might be, he lived in lower areas. Also, these forests are said to be most haunted ones in Tamil nadu after his death. We got out of Ghats by around 12 o’clock.

By the time we entered Tamil nadu, Heat waves stuck us reminding us of where we are. From here to Palladam was an average but quickly coverable road. Here again there was a mishap. Ravi’s back tyre got punctured thankfully in front of a puncture shop. There was around one hour delay here. We reached Palladam by 2 o’clock. We had lunch in Saravana Bhavan. It was delicious especially for rice lovers like me. A group of fellow bullet riders met us here who had come from Bangalore. We had a short conversation with them and left to Udumulpet. It was an absolute delight to ride in this road. It was one of those NFS rides. Very well kept roads. Wish we had such roads in Karnataka.

We reached Udumulpet where Sunil reminded us to refill our petrol tanks but we thought there is still enough so we carried on and by the time we were about to enter Munnar ghats, My petrol came on reserve. We enquired with people who insisted us to go back for a refill since there is no petrol bunks ahead for at least 40 kms. So again, we went back feeling stupid since we could have refilled in Udumulpet itself. To reach Munnar from here, it was 75 kms travel. Time was around 04:00 pm. We had to reach Munnar in day time. By this time, it was already difficult to sit on bike. One most important thing during long rides is not to wear jeans. It will make you feel hell after 250 kms. We felt thankful for people for insisting us to get refilled there since it was a complete forest ride ahead. Again, there were lot of sign boards of animals crossing but we didn’t see any. In between, my speedo meter wire went off. It was frustrating that I couldn’t sit and I was falling behind my other two roomies plus these bonus mishaps happening. So I stopped in middle of this forest and Ghat road, removed the wire and took some rest. I had travelled 560 kms till then. Munnar was still 45 kms away. It was nearing dark. We reached Marayoor at around 5 o’clock. From here starts Kannan Devan hills. Pristinely scenic yet bad roads. We didn’t have time to take pics and it was already getting dark. It was nearly impossible for me to sit on seat now. I was stopping every 15 kms. We got to see a fully grown Bison grazing in the steep valley of Kannan Devan hills. We were riding higher and higher from last 70 kms and now cloudy fogs were drifting on the roads. We reached Munnar at around 07 o’clock. I was awfully exhausted. There was still 30 kms travel to Adimali. We confirmed with Hotel owner regarding the booking before leaving Munnar. City was gleaming with full of lights and people.

We were left with small chunk of ride left to call it a day. We started again. It was dark already. We were in a hurry and couldn’t sit anymore. We went as fast as we can. We couldn’t see anything except roads. We reached Adimali at around 8 o’clock. Soon, we freshened up and had heavy meals at a restaurant nearby. Next day was a sightseeing day. For now, much needed rest and a deep sleep.

Day – 3

                We were told that we would get unlimited breakfast but it looked like he really didn’t mean it after looking at us. We ate idli, idiyappam and before ordering anything else, he asked for tea. After having a glass full of tea, we left for Munnar. We knew road was good since we had travelled in same road last night but we had missed breath taking views side by. My friends as usual went ahead. I was enjoying views and meanwhile trying to catch up with them. We could have taken pics at many places, since my friends had already went ahead, I didn’t stop. I was thinking how we could ride so quickly last night. Without knowing the steepness on the either sides and that is why horses are blacked out of side views during racing.  We reached Munnar at around 9 o’clock and decided to go for Eravikulam National park where was Anamudi peak of nearly 2.7 km height. Highest to the south of Himalayas. This was also the last abode of Nilgiri Tahr, A mountain goat of steep heights. All this excitement vanished when we reached the park. There was a very very long queue. We thought it would waste lot of time to stand in the queue, it would be better if visit Anamudi peak at least. We carried a bit further and enquired with nearby plantation people where we got to know that the peak is within park and inaccessible from any other route. So we had to skip both park and peak. We came back and stopped at the entrance of park and enquired with a vendor nearby. Surprisingly, she informed to move on and visit top station, this park would take 5 hours and is not worth it.

                Now, the new destination was top station. We also agreed upon to stop and take pics at all beautiful sceneries we pass by.

From Munnar to Top station, we get to visit lot of places. First in this way was Mattupetty dam, It was in fact on the road itself to reach top station. It would get really busy and would take a lot of time to cross it. We didn’t stop here. Next was Swiss farm. It is serenely scenic here. Indo-swiss hybrid cows are bred here. There have grown grass here on slopes which looks like Switzerland in real. 

We took a few pics and carried on to reach echo point. It was a wonderful place but was crowded and didn’t get to hear any echoes. People informed we would hear during less crowded days. 

We also stopped by to eat here since I couldn’t resist after looking at bajji’s. Kundala dam was the next place. It was also a dam cum road. There were tall grown Nilgiri trees here by the sides of the dam.

This road would also lead to Marayoor and it is completely inside forest. Could get very risky for bikers. We didn’t go anyway. We carried on further to top station. We reached there by 12 o’clock or so. Since this place is within private property of Tata Beverages, We had to buy entry tickets and it was a trek of around a km or so. We had to climb down to reach the point. Since It is winter. The area was completely covered by cloudy fog and we couldn’t see anything except fog after reaching there.

                It was very strenuous climb back. I stopped many times in between to take breath. When we came back to start point, fog cleared off and we could the very beautiful view. It was a sea of pristine white clouds smothering the steep hills. Let me not get poetic.

It was already 2 o’clock and thought of having lunch but hotels were crowded. We thought of having lunch at Munnar. What we didn’t know that there would be 5-6 kms long traffic jams in winding roads of Munnar. It was royally frustrating. We were on empty stomach and wasting time in doing nothing. We reached Munnar by 4:00 pm. Had a wonderful full meals in Saravana Bhavan again. Room-mates were insisting waiter to server more and more to me seeing my frustration. It was also shopping time. We called our respective homes to get the list of shopping items. Our plan to visit another place was foiled because of the traffic. On our way back to Adimali, We had Atukkad waterfalls. We thought of going there before going back to hotel in Adimali. The way to Atukkad waterfalls is pleasantly beautiful with undulating small road dropping down with every curve. The route to falls was more beautiful than the falls itself. We stopped for some time and had a masala tea in the nearby plantation hotel. We had nothing else for today. Way back to Adimali again got crowded with traffic. My roomies were riding bit dangerously because of the traffic. I was as usual under deep thoughts and just going behind vehicles and not troubling myself with the over takes.

                We wanted to have dinner in some other hotel today preferably pure veg or at least where they don’t cook beef. I enquired with local people and was shocked to know that there was no pure vegetarian hotel in Adimali. We walked around before going to New Palco hotel. We ordered chapathis which were really bad. Tomorrow, we would have to vacate hotel and travel to Thekkady.

Day – 4

                We decided to reach Thekkady through Idukki. Here again, route to Idukki was thoroughly enjoyable. We were moving by the side of a river in a valley. I often get into deep thoughts when I travel through wonderful places.

One such thought was that some long time back there was infinitely beautiful planet called Earth. On some unfortunate day, a supreme alien race landed on it and observed chimpanzees were the most advanced animals and tweaked its DNA to create Humans. It is unclear whether they wanted to beautify further or destroy this beautiful planet but surely we took the second path. We are incapable of controlling our desires and very soon Nature will go on correction drive to remove off humans from it. Anyway back to my ride, we reached Idukki dam but were let down badly because we had reached back end of dam and there was no entry there and we had to enter from the other end for which we have to travel back. We had taken this route mainly to visit dam and we had reached the wrong end of it. I don’t know why then there were so many boards directing us to the wrong end.

                We carried on further to Thekkady. There were two routes here again and we took the one who goes through plantations which we thought as forest looking from Google maps. The feeling you get when you go through these spice plantations is unexplainable but an experience you all must have. My roomie’s were enjoying the smell of Badam, cardamom and other spices when we were going through. My dull nose couldn’t smell it sadly. And then it happened, I was leading the other two and stopped in between after looking at a strange animal which sat majestically on the side of road. From far, It looked like leopard. I stopped and observed its face was not round, so it must be hyena or something and then remembered that there are no hyena’s in this region. Then, what is it? By this time, the domestic dog felt shy because of three big animals stopping on road and staring at it, it went inside. My room-mates were initially not clear of why did I stop and later started laughing after knowing the reason. This is what happens if you are not wearing your specs. Now I was not leading, I let other two guys go ahead.

                We reached Thekkady at around 12:30 pm. We went to check in our hotel. We had booked from stayzilla and were badly betrayed. It was a very small room. We went to have lunch and could find Ariya Bhavan(Pure veg again). Food was good and then we thought of enquiring about places to visit anywhere nearby.  

                We were caught by book makers when we were looking for information. First let down was, there was no safari arranged from tiger reserve since they had privatised It and the safari was a full day event to be booked in the early morning. We were left with jeep ride to four places which was very costly and other local activities like watching kalari payattu, kathakali, musical fountain etc which didn't excite us as much as Tigers. We went back to hotel and decided to go for Periyar tiger reserve and check out if we have some luck. Again, It was a long queue at reserve. As against our thoughts, It was a boat ride into the Periyar lake giving you views of the forest on the sides. The bookings for the day were already filled. We went blank as there was nothing planned for the rest of the day and felt as if the entire day was wasted. We started googling nearby tourist places and while going back enquired with a local person. He suggested two places, once 15 kms far and other 30 kms. We thought of going to the 15 kms spot. I cannot remember the place name now. While going, Ravi insisted on getting helmets but we didn’t take thinking it is not far place to visit and within 200 mtrs we were caught by police for not wearing helmet. He was immensely frustrated for not listening to him. We both paid 100/- Rs fine and went back to get helmets.

                The place was a falls at the edge of a cliff. It was one of the four places where jeep men had informed us to take. It was a very nice place.

At least, there were beautiful women who had come in jeeps which was a slight stress buster. We spent our evening there. I felt at least we could have visited those four places instead of wasting time in Periyar reserve for a boat ride which we didn’t get.

Anyway, we went back to hotel. I had to buy some more tea for a colleague and Malabar chips for office. We went back to Ariya bhavan. We again ordered meals but it was not good this time. They gave afternoon’s rice. We finished dinner and while going back watched Ayyapa’s swamy procession in the town. We were left with nothing else but a long travel back to Bangalore. 540 kms left in the ride. Bit too much for one day since we had already travelled around 950 kms.

Day – 5

                We vacated our room and went to have unlimited breakfast, we ate puttu first and before ordering anything else, he asked for tea. So we had tea and packed our luggage’s back into our bikes. Our route was via Theni, Dindugal, Karur, Salem, Dharmapuri, Krishnagiri, Hosur and Bangalore. We would have to get down the ghats and you notice lot of people on padha yatra to Sabarimala. Be careful and ride slowly. Road till Theni is in bit and pieces good meaning roads outside towns are excellent but pathetic inside. Also, you would notice people marching to Palani on left side along with people marching to Sabarimala on right side. Observed many aged people also walking on bare foot. Hats off to their immense beliefs. We reached Dindugal after a strenuous journey of about 140 kms and was agonising to see that Bangalore is still 380 kms far. Only reprieve was that, It was NH-7 there onwards. We stopped for tea. Surprisingly, Fellow riders stopped by for same and there was one girl in their group of three who had come riding RE Classic all by herself. The fact that she was beautiful added to the surprise. There was one guy who had accompanied her along with one more girl. They were from Bangalore. He didn’t look in any way of defending his two friends in case of a menace. Why don’t they get 100kg juggernauts like me along? Ha Ha just kidding, was advertising myself. If they can ride safely alone, I am very much relieved. Also, she had some customisations on her bike and looked like a thorough rider. Moving on, we had a very good lunch on a highway side dabha near Karur and then kept on riding in of the best highways. By the time we reached Dharmapuri, We noticed more than thousand cars jammed near toll booths. It was evening already. We reached Hosur at around 8:00 pm. We took a diversion there into Attibele road. Ravi was insisting on going to Mysore further but changed mind in Hosur. We reached room at around 10 o’clock.

                So, that was it, Total distance travelled was 1480 kms. Longest for me so far. Added to the rides of old times, It is nearly 4500 kms of trip distance in bike so far. What is that makes us so crazy for these rides? Will explain it in a poem soon. I am just too bored to write it now. We had been through one of the most scenic, breath taking, pristine, serene, inexplicably beautiful roads and places. Wish you the best if you want to do the same. Hi-five for fellow RE riders. Where is the next one then? Let time reveal.